Monday, March 13, 2017

Designing a Homegarden in Sri Lanka

Post written by Logan Sander, March 4, 2017

Here we are in Pitikele village trying to plant a “traditional” homegarden, but in many ways how we’re going about that is as foreign as we are. I believe our homegarden will be what we hope it to be (i.e. diverse, representative, productive, beautiful, educational, etc.), but it won’t be traditional in the sense that it came about the way that other homegardens in Pitikele do. I’ll explain why this isn’t a problem and try to make clear our approach to designing and creating a homegarden.

Obviously, we’re neither from Pitikele, nor do we have a great depth of personal experience with the types of plants we’re growing (I’m from Alaska, Laura is from Virginia and Blair is from Washington State).  As a result, we’ve been forced to adopt a somewhat novel approach to our homegarden. When a person in Pitikele plants a homegarden, it’s a long-term, highly iterative and experimental process. Instead of up-front planning, I believe “traditional” homegardens arise out of patterns observed in countless neighboring homegardens, skills learned early in life through helping and watching in the family garden, and through a personal (and somewhat variable) understanding of the requirements of each plant. We’ve had peeks into this process by observing Someratane and Tillekaratne’s work on their own gardens, and my impression is that folks opportunistically gather plants they desire to grow and plant them where it makes sense to them – gradually, over a period of time that spans generations. And it works - beautiful gardens develop with no maps, no deadlines, no external labor to organize, no design principles, no grand plans. Since we don’t have these experiences to draw from, and we’re trying to get this garden up and running in a year or so, our approach is necessarily more cerebral, planned and abbreviated. We’re hoping the end result is recognizable to local folks as a homegarden (we think it will be!).

            Our approach to designing this garden borrowed heavily from our experiences with permaculture design, professional forestry and our gardening experience. In permaculture design, a space is divided into “zones” that reflect the management needs and priorities of a place. For example, “Zone 1” includes those areas around a home where the manager/occupant is most likely to interact, i.e. the walkway from the car to the front door, the area around the patio, the planter box outside the kitchen window, and so forth. This is where one would concentrate those things that have frequent management needs (watering, weeding, etc.) and produce frequent yields where convenience is a key attribute (culinary herbs, medicinal plants, etc.). The complete schema is as follows (adapted to our context):

Zone 1: near the house, frequent maintenance and/or yields, enjoyable aesthetics, access is most important; e.g. culinary herbs, frequently used medicinal plants, flowers, plants that need to be grown near the home.
Zone 2: moderate maintenance needs; e.g. vegetable crops, fruit and nut trees, medicinal plants, perennial crops.
Zone 3: low-maintenance, more extensive tall-tree orchards, timber trees, etc.
Zone 4: e.g. woodlot, natural forest management.
Zone 5: “wilderness,” or at least, unmanaged areas.

Zones 1-3 are indicated. Zones 4-5 are not labeled, but are beyond 3 including the green area
Here is an example of a permaculture design describing zone distinctions.

Because there are three of us designing our homegarden, we thought the concept of zones would help us to divide the work so we wouldn’t need to “design by committee.” This way, with constant consultation and feedback, we could each focus on our own design problems, keeping in mind that the relationships between our designs were as important as anything else. Laura would tackle Zone 1 around the home, I would take on the surrounding Zone 2 fruit trees and Blair would handle what we call Zone 3, the outlying tree gardens of coconuts, jakfruit and other tall, widely-spaced trees.

It doesn’t take long to realize that traditional homegardens blur many of the boundaries between these zones, though I believe the categories are useful. We observe at every homegarden a zone around the dwelling that has potted plants, ornamental flowers, medicinals, everyday food plants, etc. This high species diversity, low-abundance region has been called the “patio” in Sri Lankan research articles, and it corresponds precisely with the Zone 1 definitions of most permaculture designers. Zone 2 is not quite as tidy, but we’ve still recognized a rather tight ring of fruit, nut and timber trees around the home that neatly corresponds to Zone 2. Zone 3 is overall looser, as Zone 2 tends to cut into and between areas of Zone 3.

It’s important to remember that these categories are merely social, behavioral distinctions – nothing will be permanently marked off to show them in our garden. Instead, the evolving patterns of use and maintenance, combined with plant structure and development, will mean that these zones are continually redefined. They are really categories of the behaviors of the people managing the garden, as expressed through their priorities and habits.

            We further informed our design process by conducting a site analysis, much as a forester would do when writing a management plan for a family forest. We mapped out the existing vegetation that we wanted to retain, the design constraints (views, powerlines, buried pipes, etc.), basic hydrological attributes, soils, the path of the sun, and access opportunities across the homegarden. Based on historic photos and our soil pits we were able to reconstruct the recent history of the homegarden area, recognizing some areas of relatively rich topsoil and several areas of redistributed subsoil fill. From this, the three of us put on our boots and spent a day flagging out our zone delineations. Next, we planned which species should go where. In order to determine this, we relied on our observations, our conversations with local gardeners about our specific plans, our knowledge of the site requirements of each plant, and the built in limitations (view shed, hosue proximity, powerlines, floodplains, etc).

We split up each zone into smaller parcels in order to organize our work and have something to refer to when planning. Each parcel can be identified by a number (zone) and letter. We’ve included Laura’s and my maps of zones 1 and 2 here. After discussions with our local colleagues and those at Yale, we’ve decided to plant out a more modest area this spring, saving the remainder for upcoming fellows. Part of the reason for this is time – we can do our site preparation now while it’s dry, but most of our planting must happen during the rainy season. We all have to leave for home in June, and the southwest monsoon generally begins in May, leaving us a short amount of time to wrap things up and get plants in the ground. Also, much of the soil we’re working with (especially in zone 2) is sandy-gravely subsoil that was pushed around during the groundwork for the field station. It is extremely low in nutrients, droughty and low in organic content. We don’t know how our plants will do in these areas, so it makes sense to only plant out part of our nursery in the hopes that we can learn something in the meantime about their success and adjust our planting/site preparation accordingly… sort of like, not putting all of our eggs in one basket... As a result, before we leave this summer we hope to plant all of zone 1, parcels 2B and 2C, and whatever areas of zone 3 we can manage.


            The included maps are only a first iteration. Since we created these maps, we’ve already made many changes and as we visit other homegardens (we’ve been to over 50 so far!), botanical gardens (Perideniya Garden in Kandy is incredible!), and receive more feedback, other changes will surely be made. Many more trees, shrubs and herbs will eventually fill out the space after these species are planted – some will be planted by us as we observe and learn and more will be planted in the future as more fellows continue our work. It’s fun to imagine what this place will look like in 5-10 years!

Zone 1B is immediately in front of the veranda and will include mostly ornamental flowers. There is also a passionfruit climbing a tree and the empty areas will fill in with orchids, pitcher plants, and ferns that were cut back for planting.
The names on these maps are in Sinhala, so you won't recognize them, but this is just to give you an idea of our process.
Logan's are a mix of English and Sinhala, so you'll recognize a few of these!

Wednesday, March 8, 2017

Life in Pitakele Village


As our language has improved, so has our immersion into the community. We’ve had several experiences that we don’t fully comprehend, but have been happy to come away with the small extent we understand and the education and enjoyment of engaging with the people around us.

Here are a few examples of cultural engagement, as well as some fun tidbits of our time here…

Once a year, the elementary school in town
Opening ceremony! A girl & boy from each team carry a torch
holds what we think of as a “field day.” It includes races, singing, a building competition, and other activities. We decided this would be interesting, so we attended, along with much of the community. The parents of the children build the houses the night before and are judged partly based on their inclusion of traditional techniques and representative traditional practices (like the way the rooms are set up and the tools they include in the kitchen, etc). The houses were impressive! One team built a house-like house, another built a peacock house, and the third built an elephant house! We loved seeing the palms, bamboo, bananas, etc. used to make these structures. The children were also impressive and quite cute!



The "houses" built by the parents of the elementary school teams with natural materials
The elephant house
The peacock house
Children listening to the announcer and singing

One day a carpenter friend of Tillekaratne and Someratne’s came by the field station to hang out. We got to talking and showed him a photo of the tiny house we built.  He was so impressed! He loved it and wanted a copy of the photo. He also invited us to his house to meet his family and have dinner with them. They made us a delicious feast of jak fruit curry, gota kola (a foraged green) and coconut salad, fruit, and of course pre-dinner sweets and tea. They showed us some of the things that Nanda Pala has made, including their house, furniture, and some cool bamboo cups. Logan hopes to go back and made bamboo cups with him one day. His mother-in-law also showed us a beautiful old traditional basket.
An old traditional basket
A bamboo cup Nanda Pala made
After dinner at Nanda Pala's with his family, Someratne's family, and Tillekaratne



Another day our researcher friend, Champika, brought us wild bananas that he found in the forest. They were more seed than flesh! Who knew? The flavor was good, but spitting out that many seeds was quite the chore… I can see why we favored eliminating them…











In an attempt to share our culture, Logan and I decided to make a pasta dinner for Someratne and Tillekaratne. To appeal to their taste, we went for an arrabiata-like sauce, adding a good number of little chilis. We had some Italian seasonings that my sister had brought us when she visited and added lots of garlic and onions. We also made garlic bread. It was delicious! They seemed to think so too… at least that’s what they led us to believe!


Pasta and garlic bread dinner with Someratne and Tillekaratne (sorry for the dark photo)

A few days ago, we found two lizards hanging out in the field station. One of them left later that day, but the other took up camp on top of our bug net! After the first night, we decided maybe he would like to be our pet, so we started feeding him bugs that we found around. So far, we have given her a couple of cockroaches and a beetle. She’s been here for 3 nights! I’m sure one day, she’ll choose to move on, but for now, her life seems pretty cush.


I think I’ve told you before that I really like drinking the water from coconuts… Since they grow all around here, we asked Tillekaratne if he could find us some to buy. Shortly thereafter, he took us to his uncle’s house where he proceeded to climb a giant king coconut tree and cut us down 20 coconuts. He put those on the tea truck that would deliver them up the hill that afternoon along with several sprouted coconut seedlings, so we could grow our own. Here is a video of Tillekaratne climbing the coconut tree. It took him a while to cut out the coconuts, so that part isn’t in the video.  Still, check out those climbing skills!

And a final aside... 


Sri Lankan transportation is not designed for folks over 6'!

Saturday, February 11, 2017

A family visit packs in some amazing wildlife and sun!

In January, we had a wonderful 9 day visit from my sister and two of her children (9 and 7 years old) who live in China. We packed in a great amount of adventure in between relaxing days on the beach. In addition to taking the opportunity to enjoy some family time, our trip was focused mostly on one thing - the beautiful natural environment here - full of incredible plant and animal life as well as pristine beaches.  Oh, and also trying a selection of the diverse and tasty foods of the country - largely focused on fruits and juices :) but we also enjoyed many a curry and quite a lot of roti (flat fried bread)! The twelve juices the kids tried were wood apple, mango, papaya, passion fruit, soursop, pineapple, mixed fruit, guava, banana, lime, lemon, and King Coconut water. A pretty impressive array! After an early morning arrival at the airport, we went directly to the Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage. This was pretty exceptional for the children and for us too. We saw "baby" elephants being fed milk (they were still huge!) We fed baby and full sized elephants lots of fruit; and we saw all the elephants of the orphanage taking their daily bath in the river. Getting to touch an elephant is pretty special and Audriana was really taken with one of the baby elephants in particular.
Elephants bathing in the river at Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage
Is that baby elephant trying to eat Audriana?
  From there, we headed to the field station at Sinharaja. We arrived pretty late - having to cross our little bridge in the dark and at the field station, we found ourselves in the familiar circumstance of arriving to a power black-out. The normally super peaceful surroundings were a little tainted by the loud noise and fumes of our generator and after an incredibly exhausting day of travel, everyone was ready for bed anyway. In fact, the children fell asleep at the dinner table!
Audriana sucks the nectar from a flower
The next morning, we were pleasantly awakened to the musical cadence of the rainforest and progressed through our day inspecting its wonders. We went swimming in the river and walked upriver exploring what lies around each bend. We went bouldering over rocks and along slopes to find a bat cave tucked in among them. We watered the plants in our nursery and drank the water of several delicious coconuts. We saw many monkeys, birds, and lizards. Along the way, Audriana and Joseph made a new friend in our neighbor's son, Tarindu and they enjoyed exploring and playing together. Tarindu showed them how to suck the nectar from an edible katuru murunga flower, which tastes a lot like a honeysuckle and to drink the water from a pitcher plant before the top covering has opened (also before it has eaten any bugs). In addition to these natural edibles, the children were mostly pleased to eat he Sri Lanka  curries our cook prepared (not spicy for their sake) and especially the vast selection of fruit we procured. 
Joseph and Audriana with pitcher plants to drink
                 
We're ready for a day of jungle adventures!
The following day, we walked to town and into the Sinharaja Forest Reserve. It was a difficult journey for the children. Even though it was all downhill, it takes about an hour to arrive at the main gate from our place and the sun was pretty intense. Once in the park though, our attention was on the forest and it also provided nice cover from the sun. A guide from the park joined us and he pointed out snakes, lizards, frogs, bugs, and birds that we probably would have missed otherwise. It was a rewarding and exhausting day in the jungle.  Joseph's favorite part was when a wild chicken (Sri Lankan Jungle Fowl) wandered onto our path and once we felt thoroughly finished admiring his beauty, he proceeded to follow us up the path for quite some time!  
A Sri Lankan Kangaroo Lizard - a real jumper!
 
Our friend, the wali kukula (wild chicken)
Tarindu admires fungi we found in the rainforest
A pit viper at Sinharaja! Careful - they are deadly!
We saw and heard lots of purple-faced langur monkeys!
Calotes calotes is not very shy and common, so we got close!
Calotes calotes makes his head red for breeding.
 
 From Sinharaja, we proceeded to the southern coast to spend a few days relaxing and enjoying the pristine and calm waters of Mirissa Beach. Our journey was delayed when our driver's van had transmission problems and we had to arrange for a different ride, but upon arrival, the waters washed away any concerns and we had a fantastic time bobbing in the waves. The kids found body surfing the tiny beach crashes thrilling as well. Our hotel had beautiful gardens and a few exciting animals that visited too - a monkey we got to touch, a peacock, a monitor lizard, and some birds, squirrels, and a chipmunk... we don't advocate the taming of wildlife, but still it was exciting to see these animals up close.        
The kids enjoy the beautiful and calm waters of Mirissa beach
The ocean is so exciting! Yay!
Joseph and Audriana "body surfing"
The green garden guest home in Mirissa
a monitor lizard wanders nearby the hotel
What a unique experience- petting a monkey!
We took a day trip to visit a sea turtle conservation center and the Old Dutch Fortress of Galle. The kids loved the turtles - 3 species were represented and included eggs, fresh hatchlings and older injured turtles. Galle was a welcome opportunity to enjoy a different built environment (more European) and some delicious western food and coffee.
 
 
We even squeezed in a local bus ride!
Vikki and kids at the Galle lighthouse
Boats along the harbor in Galle Fort
Laura and Logan at Galle
Next, we travelled east to the dry zone for a safari in Yala National Park. We arrived in the evening to a beautiful remote hotel, where we were treated to mango juices, a delicious dinner, and the entertainment of a huge number of Indian Flying Fox and smaller fruit bats feasting on the abundance of mangos in a nearby tree. It was too dark for pictures, but trust me that it was amazing and a very memorable experience to see these giant flying bats entering and departing the tree, dropping mango remains as they went. The next morning, we woke up at 5 AM and set out to the Park to see animals in the morning when they are more active. We stayed about 5 hours and certainly saw a lot! We were very lucky to see a leopard sleeping in a tree through binoculars and as I was looking, I also saw it's mate walk by! Two leopards! Additionally, we saw an elephant, water buffalo, jackals, mongoose, spotted deer, land monitor lizard, marsh crocodiles, black faced langur monkeys, blue Indian peafowl (peacocks), jack rabbit, and many other. birds including the little green bee eater, blue-tailed bee eater, cattle egret, Sri Lankan jungle fowl, spoonbill, red-wattled lapwing, crow, pelican, and painted stork. That was all at Yala and not even covering the many more types of birds we saw at Sinharaja and in other areas.
 
Water buffalo and egrets
A male Sri Lankan elephant
Peacocks we're all around!
Up close with the spotted deer
A jackal dashing into the brush
Who would have thought it possible to take a selfie with a wild boar?
Tired from so much adventuring, we decided to spend our final day back at the beach before heading back to Colombo and the airport. Our final full day in Sri Lanka was also Joseph's 8th birthday, so we celebrated with a selection of cakes and he got a few Sri Lankan wildlife books to take home. 
 
An 8th birthday to remember!
Joseph takes interest in the animals we saw on our trip