Entry by Laura Luttrell
Written May 1, 2017 (sorry for the delay in posting - we had some internet challenges)
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Flower, oil, tea, and betel/bulat offerings for the New Year |
In April, we celebrated the Sinhala New Year, which to our knowledge is the biggest holiday of the year. Students and teachers are off for 3 weeks at this time and the country shuts down for at least the official day while everyone spends time with their families. Typically, people go to the temple and visit their relatives - traveling to their familial village if they have moved away. In our village, we were fortunate to be invited into the families and festivities of our two closest friends here, Someratne and Tillekaratne.
The holiday, like many of ours in America, includes a mix of religious symbolism, cultural tradition, and firecrackers. The traditions in Sri Lanka are linked to astrology and most families purchase a "litha," a special calendar to inform them of the auspicious moments when they are to perform certain acts. This creates an interesting dynamic where people across the country are performing rituals at the same time throughout the course of several days.
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Coconut oil burning in Kuduwa |
The first auspicious moment commences the holiday. At this time, everyone “lights the hearth” (lipa gini melavima). This is when they light both the cooking hearth and the altar that holds various religious elements, including incense, food offerings, lit coconut oil, and flowers.
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A banana stem with other plants made into an altar |
Next is the auspicious time of cooking a meal (ahara pisima), followed by the auspicious time of eating a meal (ahara anubhawa kirima). Since these times are early in the morning, the meal is breakfast and traditionally kiribath, a salty coconut milk rice mixture. Kiribath can be made in squares or into rolls that are filled with pol pani, a coconut mixture made with kithul honey. We enjoyed eating the later type made by Tillekaratne’s wife.
On the following day at 11:10 am, we participated in hisa tel gaema, or anointment with coconut oil. We each walked over a mound of karanda leaves (Humboldtia laurifolia) as Someratne rubbed a little oil on each of our heads while leaves of the nuga tree (Ficus benghalensis) were hanging above us.
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Anointment with Coconut Oil at the auspicious moment! |
Other auspicious moments include a time to go to your place
of work (this works well if you have a flexible schedule, but is not regularly
practiced by those with scheduled work) and a time to bathe in order to cleanse
from the old year.
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Tea and sweets at Tillekaratne's house before lunch |
This was all intermingled with visiting relatives and eating
lots of sweets and food… sounds familiar, right? We ate lunch on New Year’s Day,
April 14
th, at Tillekaratne’s, preceded by an abundance of tea and
sweets. We later made our way down to Someratne’s for a virtually identical
dinner, of course preceded by tea and sweets, but this time with a little betel
nut chewing as well (Blair has written a blog on betel that I will post soon).
The following day, we had "kiribath"
for breakfast at Tillekaratne’s house (with you guessed it, more tea and
sweets), on our way down to visit Someratne’s wife’s family’s house.
There, we had even more tea and sweets before
we were anointed with oil and ate a big lunch. Whew! The eating really wore us
out. We were exhausted.
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A New Year's feast at Tillekaratne's house |
In addition to the family visits, each village celebrates
the New Year with a community-wide festival. We attended three! - one in Kuduwa
village at the bottom of mountain where we catch the bus, one in the next
village along the bus route, Weddagala, where our friend (who invited us)
lives, and one in our village, Pitakele, in that order over the course of a few
weeks.
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Someratne's son was the MC at the Kuduwa festival |
Each festival was similar in that they consisted of a stage
with an announcer, who talked nearly the entire time, a ceremony with singing
and dancing, snack vendors, and lots of games.
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Bread-eating competition |
Games were the main attraction, filling the entire day
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A children's race |
from
morning till dark. They included races for all ages, a greasy bamboo pole
climb,
a frighteningly intense pillow-fight competition, a piñata type game
that had milk in one of three
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Draw the eye on the elephant |
ceramic hanging bowls, a bread eating contest,
balloon blowing contests, threading a needle relay, draw the eye on the
elephant (like pin the tail on the donkey), balancing a coin while standing on
one leg, egg toss, guess the number of seeds in a papaya/pumpkin, walk the
bamboo plank to retrieve a flag, hot potato, three-legged race, and the
obligatory tug of war contests.
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greasy pole climbing contest |
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Piñata-type game with ceramic bowls (one filled with milk) |
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Standing on one foot while balancing a coin on a knee in Weddagala |
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Balloon blowing competition ended when someone popped their balloon |
We were encouraged to participate in the games, but seeing
as how we were already quite a spectacle, we didn’t choose to make ourselves
anymore noticeable at the first festival. At the second festival, we were
invited to sit on the stage, so we were pretty noticeable by then and we agreed
to hand out some prizes. We finally gave in when we attended the festival in
our own village.
In Pitakele, we played
a game where the whole community went around in a circle and when the music
stopped, a number was called out and we had to get together in groups of that
number. If you weren’t in a group of that number, you were out. It was kind of
like musical chairs. Fun and simple. We also made a guess at how many seeds
were in the pumpkin (we were way off!) But the participation that will be
remembered is when Logan and Blair put all their strength up against the other
men of the village… For weeks before the big day, we (mostly Blair) were asked
to join in on a local tug of war team.
We quickly realized that this was a really big deal in the community and
eventually on the day of the event, they agreed to play. There were tug of wars
for children, for women, and for men. The men had several teams and competed
tournament style. It was intense! In the end, Blair and Logan’s team did great,
coming in 2
nd place, even pulling off an upset tiebreaker from the
slippery side of the court!
The men who
won were by far the burliest men of the village and we didn’t think it would be
right to bring down the village confidence in their supreme strength by beating
them
(post-justification)… Villagers
were commenting on Logan and Blair’s performance for days following the
festival and we are sure that their efforts will be talked about for years to come.
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Women in Pitakele participating in a tug of war competition |
It was an exhausting time for us, but certainly the most
we’ve engaged in the happenings of the community and an interesting insight to
the Sri Lankan holiday season.
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