Saturday, May 13, 2017

Continuing a Sri Lankan tradition - Bananas!



Entry written by Logan Sander

A wild banana found in the forest near our house
Did you know that Sri Lanka is home to one of the wild ancestors of the banana? We’ve even had the opportunity to try a variety of wild banana still found growing in the nearby forest. Bananas and plantain (not differentiated in Sri Lanka) are homegarden mainstays throughout the tropics and Pitikele is no exception. Only a few homegardens have no banana plants, while the majority contain a few to over a hundred plants. Owing to this importance, we thought it fitting that the first major planting effort in the mid-level tree garden (Zone 2, from a previous entry) be the bananas.
The flesh was tasty, but it was mostly seeds.


In this region, bananas are generally cultivated on concave slope positions with deep, rich soils and abundant moisture. Only a few small areas of our homegarden match this description, but I believe that with sufficient preparation and attention we can still make them work throughout our site. A benefit of growing bananas is that their leaves and herbaceous stems provide wonderful mulch and they self-propagate by producing vegetative shoots which become new stems once the original tree has fruited and died back (strictly speaking, bananas are herbs as they produce no woody tissues, but I tend to think of them as trees in the homegarden). The fruit of cultivated bananas are sterile (the little black specks found in a banana are the aborted seeds), thus all homegarden banana reproduction occurs from these new vegetative shoots. Over time, cultivating bananas will create opportunities for other homegarden plants that need this improved soil and the shady microclimate that the growing plants provide. Plus, perhaps because of their familiarity to us, we eat a lot of them.

The main challenge to planting bananas at the field station is the poor, droughty soil. Almost everywhere I’d like bananas to be, we have rocky subsoil, exposed during the construction of the field station that is far too nutrient and moisture poor for such a hungry herb. Our local friends report that they would never grow bananas in a few of the locations we’re attempting to, though I have seen large, apparently successful plants on similar patio areas in some of our neighbors’ homegardens. Shortly after arriving here last fall we planted a few bananas next to our patio in an area with this subsoil – after 5 months a few have died and the rest have grown a few small leaves – not nearly good enough results for a “demonstration homegarden.” To get around this, we’re excavating large
Our banana planting "ingredients"
holes (2-3’ around, 2’ deep) and filling them with a rich mixture of decomposed leaf litter, topsoil from the forest edge and kekila fernlands, and compost purchased from the closest town (Kalawana). It’s not a perfect solution, but with repeated applications of mulch and compost I believe it will support the plants enough for them to grow and produce fruit. I’m hoping that over the years the soils around the bananas will slowly increase in moisture and nutrient holding capacity, though I’m under no illusion that we can completely shift the development of what are surely some of the poorest soils in the valley. Also, in a few years the locations of these bananas could be suitable spots to locate fruit tree seedlings, with somewhat improved soil conditions and a good microclimate for establishing a tree.


Tillekaratne filling a banana hole
 We (meaning: mostly Tillekaratne) dug 17 large holes across our homegarden for bananas. We were able to locate around 8 of these in areas we’d expect bananas to be grown: along the river terrace near the nursery, and in slightly wetter concave swales. Around each hole we built a small wire-mesh fence (to keep out wild boar) and we filled the holes with topsoil, compost and mulch. There is seemingly an infinite supply of leaf litter on our river’s beach near the bridge – each flood deposits several inches of leaves or rodu there. Over the weeks between floods, it breaks down into coarse, sandy mulch. Some days, in the cool mornings and evenings, we haul a few bags of it up to the homegarden to mix with soil and compost.
Logan hauling leaf litter
As a completely unscientific experiment, I pushed to include more compost in some of the holes than we were locally advised to do (attaining around a 1:1 ratio with topsoil). Our local teachers thought this was too “hot” for the plants and a waste of compost, a locally valuable resource that, in our case, we are purchasing. I feel that because we’re planting some of these bananas in very marginal soils, we should perhaps invest a little more in these plants.

 
The 17 banana trees we are planting (in addition to the 6 we already have) will include 9 varieties, but there are many more throughout the country. Some closely resemble the Cavendish cultivars commonly found in North American grocery stores. Others are much sweeter or have a better texture. One starchy variety that I don’t much care for,“allu kesel,” is served as a curry. The prize, fetching a premium in local markets, is “ambul kesel.” Somie brought us our first from Kuduwa last week. We’ve even heard of a variety with fruit that is several feet long! With luck, next year’s fellows will be blessed with a steady supply of tasty ones from our homegarden.

Banana varieties in our homegarden:

Ambul kesel      Ambun kesel     Anamalu kesel     Kolikottu kesel     Rat kesel     Rata kolikutu kesel
Sini kesel     Suandel kesel     Sudu kochi kesel (also called Malu kesel)


Preparing a fence post for pounding into the ground

Pounding fence posts into a banana site for our hopefully boar-proof fence
Our largest banana specimen on its way to the field station
Banana plants in route to the field station from a nearby homegarden






Friday, May 5, 2017

Nepal - A Himalayan Trekking Detour

Once we learned that we needed to leave Sri Lanka before we reached 6 months in the country and we decided that a one-day trip to India or the Maldives wasn't appealing, we started hatching a plan to go trekking in Nepal.  So, come mid March, we set off to spend 3 weeks in Nepal! We had enough time to hike one of the world's most phenomenal trails and by right, the most popular in this small, but majestic country. The timing was such that we could expect a reasonably pleasant trip weather-wise, barring any big storms. We landed in the capital, Kathmandu, where we stocked up on cold weather gear (coming from the tropics, we felt drastically unprepared for the temperatures we were seeing predicted on our smartphone). A couple of down jackets, some phenomenal western meals, tons of inhaled dust, and a 3 hour wait in traffic later... we were on our way to the beginning of the trek. 

The Annapurna Circuit is over 100 miles long in total, depending on where you start and end. We hiked approximately 70 miles of it and added on a side trip of about 20 miles over the course of 13 days. The trek passes through dozens of small villages, some of which we would choose for meals and sleeping. We climbed from 800 m (2,625 ft) to 5416 m (17,769 ft) in elevation where the early morning temperature reached less than 20 degrees Farheinheit and the atmospheric oxygen was only 50% of that at sea level! It was the highest either of us have ever been and perhaps will ever be on foot. We took a lot of precaution to avoid getting altitude sickness by progressing up in elevation only a little each day, got a lot of rest, and stayed hydrated. Logan experienced a mild headache on the day of the pass and I didn't sleep very well at the high altitudes, but other than that, we both acclimated very well. We were surprised to see several helicopters flying climbers down that had gotten very ill. 

Our first day in the lowlands after a few rain showers              
One of many beautiful waterfalls along our trek

 

This circuit has been lauded by many as the world’s best long distance hike partially due to its varied terrain and scenic landscapes. It winds through subtropical jungle, agricultural terraced hillsides, and a deep gorge before ascending into pine forests and across the snow-laden pass. Finally, the descent reveals a desert-like region that was once a bustling trade route for salt from Tibet and rice and barley from Nepal before China closed the border in the 1960s. One of the reasons this trek is so popular is its relative comfort over conventional hiking and camping. Every night, we would arrive at a town and find a “teahouse,” where we would be given a simple, but nice room for free or very cheap, provided we eat dinner and breakfast there. The rooms generally had two twin beds with clean sheets and often had a connected bathroom. Most guesthouses now have hot showers and some even have wood stoves. In addition to the amazing opportunity to sleep on a mattress each night, the food at these establishments is incredible, especially compared to what you might expect on a camping trip. The traditional meal was dhal bhat – a set menu of rice, soupy lentils and a vegetable dish at minimum. This always proved to be a good choice - all you can eat, warming, and tasty. We ate this frequently, but having come from Sri Lanka, we felt it was a little too similar to the rice and curry we have been eating for the past 5 months (basically it was the same, but without coconut milk), so we often ordered western foods from the menus. We were astonished by some of the options available. We had pizza, banana pancakes, omelets, burritos, veggie fajitas, pumpkin soup, and even a deep-fried snickers bar. Some of the more traditional offerings were also exceptional – we particularly liked the momos, a steamed dumpling filled with veggies and sometimes the very tasty yak cheese. At Tibetan guesthouses, we enjoyed tsampa porridge (made from the locally grown barley) and Tibetan butter tea (made with yak butter and a little salt – very warming!). While the food was inexpensive by western standards, it was expensive given the local economy. Our expenses including meals, lodging, and transportation (buses on the first and last day) on the trekking days averaged about $35 per day for the two of us together.
Dhal bhat, momos, pumpkin soup, & a deep fried snickers bar (not pictured)                 
The walk had a lot of variety and interesting terrain      
Each village had a Buddhist gateway, usually with 3 towers on top      
Three days in, we were still seeing a lot of people descending who were unable to pass, so when we arrived to Dharapani and saw a sign advertising a beautiful and quiet side trip for a couple of days, we thought that the delay might give the snow a little more time to clear. We are so glad we took this little detour! It was easily our favorite part of the hike. The trail ascended to another pass, which was also snowed in, but we just went part way to the tiny town of Gho, where we stayed the night. The next day, we backtracked until we found a smaller side-trail that winded through the back hills to a seldom visited monastery (and by seldom, I mean we were the second set of foreigners that had gone there in the past 5 years!). From there, we crossed the highest suspension bridge in Nepal into the most remote village of our trip, Nache, perched on the steep peak of a mountain (8,202 ft elevation). Then we descended the steep mountain back to a village that we had passed on our way to Dharapani. At the monastery, we very much enjoyed the two hours we passed talking with a monk we met there. He showed us around and we asked him questions about Buddhism and his life, while he asked us questions about our lives. His master also lived there (93 years old!), along with two nuns. He invited us back to stay with him at the monastery in the future. We enjoyed this segment of the hike largely because of its seclusion. Unlike the main Annapurna Circuit, a vehicular road has not yet been built to access these villages, so all traffic was either foot traffic or on animals. This key difference makes the villages quieter and less visited. We found that the people we passed along this route were much more likely to talk with us and to inquire about where we were going. While we very much enjoy this type of trekking over the now jeep-trafficked road of the main circuit, we recognized that given the opportunity a road is probably what the villagers most desired, being so far from the cities and most modern supplies. The association that oversees the Annapurna Conservation Area has started to build alternate routes away from the road, which we took whenever possible. I suspect that as other more remote treks in Nepal become more popular, and unless most of this trek gets off the road, the Circuit will wane in popularity. 
Vehicles don't journey this path (yet), so many people port their loads                
 
We visited a remote monastery where we spent the afternoon with a friendly monk                
Logan crosses the highest bridge to a tiny, not frequently visited village topping the mountain                
 
The view looking down from the highest bridge in Nepal      
Nepal is home to 60 or more ethnic and caste groups speaking 24-123 languages, depending on how finely the distinctions are made. Along our trek, it was hard to distinguish whom we came across, but our perception was that the areas were largely Buddhist and there was a significant amount of Tibetans and Tibetan influence. Over 80% of Nepal’s 30 million plus people live in the countryside and are generally quite poor. Trekking has provided an opportunity to these small villages beyond anything that they can do within the local economy. Nepal used to be closed to foreigners, but the first trekkers were admitted to the country in 1949 and with that, an industry was born that has since become a substantial part of the country’s economy.       
Some of the Buddhist gateways have magnificent paintings to assist in meditation              
We loved hiking in the cold fresh mountain air with spectacular views around every corner!              
 
A festive and intricate prayer monument              
 We found many similarities between Sri Lanka and Nepal. The people in the villages of both countries are extremely friendly – by far the most friendly people overall we have ever encountered, going well out of their way to be helpful without any expectation of repayment from us (although, they do believe in karma). They are always quick to smile and are exceedingly tolerant of varying religious views, while they take their own views as the framework for every aspect of their lives. Nepali people display these beliefs through even the simplest expression – their greeting, Namaste, means “I honor the divine within you” and is always done with hands in prayer position and a small bow. Buddhism in Sri Lanka seems to be more of a personal affair. Each family has a small shrine in their homes and visits the temple either regularly or on special occasions, but the public monuments are fewer outside of the temples, at least in the villages near where we live. In Nepal, each village had meditative prayer gates on each end, stupas to mark sacred sites (nearly each village had at least one), and prayer stones and flags were ubiquitous throughout the hike. These things were in addition to the monasteries, temples, and Buddhist schools scattered across the mountains. I’ve read that prayer and ritual are a large part of daily life in the villages and that people believe that the gods affect their lives in very direct ways. My understanding of the Buddhism in Sri Lanka is that it is more of a philosophy about how to live and how to reach enlightenment. They believe in gods as well, but the primary message is one of personal transformation and transcendence.  
High above the clouds at Ghyaru village - this was the beautiful view from our guesthouse  
 
Prayer stones are ubiquitous in the mountain villages and passes with engraved mantras                  
Looking south across a forested valley at the Annapurna Massif              
A view from the hill above the town of Manang, with a glacial lake in the background                
The largest town on the trail, Manang, had an old traditional area where the villagers live                
We made it to the high mountain country and were loving it                
Yaks are still used in the high passes to carry loads and break through fresh snow            
Our side trip worked out great and we reached the pass with perfect weather and timing. Another smaller storm would be hitting after we crossed 😊
         
A panoramic view of the pass      
Celebrating at 17,769 ft high with an awesome couple we met from Michigan              
 
Looking down the valley from the pass towards Muktinath and the arid Mustang region              
 
Prayer wheels could be found at the entrance and exit of most villages              
A lovely lake high in the mountains              
 In the cities (Kathmandu and Pokhara), before and after the hike, we feasted on an assortment of delicious foods including mostly Italian, but also some Indian, Mexican, and American (burgers). Hotels in the cities were obviously more expensive and so was the food, but it was still a really good deal by western standards at $65 a day for hotel and meals. In Pokhara, we visited an interesting museum about trekking in Nepal (International Mountain Museum) and the World Peace Stupa, commemorating Nepal’s importance in the life of Buddha. We really enjoyed our trip and when it was time to return to Sri Lanka, it seemed Nepal wasn’t ready to let us go... We arrived at the airport and although our tickets confirmed a flight at that time, no such flight existed and no staff from our airline was there to assist us. Apparently, the day after we arrived to Nepal, our airline had suspended all further flights to and from Sri Lanka and the travel agent in Sri Lanka that owned the website where we bought the tickets didn’t bother to let us knowLOnce we finally were able to talk with the airline, they were not willing to help us and said we should talk to the travel agent. I tried, but communication was difficult and we didn’t get anywhere. In the end, the airline (perhaps being reimbursed through the travel agent – unclear) paid for a new flight for us the following day, a hotel, and meals. It was a stressful departure, but in the end it went well enough. When we arrived back to our peaceful refuge in the rainforest, we felt the stresses of world travel again melt away, like arriving home.